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Apparent Leakage in PVC Pipe

Gasketed PVC pipe is very popular today across North America for underground water mains as well as sewage force mains. As is the case for all pipelines, regardless of material, post-construction testing is usually demanded to ensure all new lines have been installed properly.

One test that is common for gasketed pipe such as PVC is the combined ‘leakage and pressure’ test. This test is intended to verify both the pressure capacity and the joint tightness of the pipe system simultaneously.

The procedure of this test is to first fill a section of the line with water. Next, additional water is pumped into the line until the section is elevated to a desired test pressure. The system is then closed and held for a specified test period, typically 2 hours.

During this 2 hours, it is possible that the system pressure may drop. If the pressure drop is rapid during testing, it is likely that a significant leak is present in the system. This could most times be attributed to an improper assembly of an appurtenance, pipe joint or service connection.

However, assuming that proper installation and assembly were performed, it is possible to have a very slight drop in pressure over the 2 hours. To establish a limit for a permissible pressure drop, a table of ‘Allowable Leakage Volumes’ was created. This table indicates the maximum volume of water permitted to be added back to the system after a pressure/leakage test has indicated a slight pressure drop. (The actual table of values may be found in the IPEX PVC Pressure Pipe Installation Guide or in AWWA C605).

For instance, for 1000 m of 300 mm gasketed PVC water main, a maximum volume of 7.6 L of make-up water (theoretically, the leakage occurring during the test) is permitted to be added for a 1035 kPa test (equivalent to 2.0 US gal. for 3300 ft. of 12” pipe tested at 150 psi). If larger volumes of water are required, the test is considered to be a failure and the installer must locate and repair any system deficiencies.

As a result of this table of ‘leakage’ allowances, many individuals have a perception that gasketed joint PVC is always leaking to some degree. In actual fact, properly assembled PVC pipe will be bottle-tight.

This claim is verified by the rigorous testing performed on the gasketed joint at the manufacturing plant. Gasketed PVC pressure joints, to be certified to CSA B137.3, and to conform to ASTM D 3139, must undergo the following 2 tests :

(a) 60 minutes at 2.5 times the pressure rating of pipe (i.e. 588 psi for DR18)

(b) 60-70 seconds at 3.2 times the pressure rating of pipe (i.e. 755 psi for DR18)

Both of these tests are conducted while the joint is offset to its maximum recommended angle to simulate a worst-case field condition. Zero leakage is permitted at the joints during these tests. The consistency and precision found in the extrusion of PVC pipe, coupled with the very strict dimensional tolerances, ensure that the gasketed joint will be fully as reliable in the field as is proven in the plant.

One example of PVC’s joint tightness was illustrated on a project recently completed outside Vancouver in Delta, British Columbia. B&B Contracting of Surrey was contracted to construct 4500 m (15,000 ft.) of 400 mm (16”) PVC DR18 water main as a supply main to the newly constructed DeltaPort Container Terminal.

After completing installation, Project Superintendent Rollie Knackstead showed tremendous confidence in the workmanship of his crew, as well as the pipe, by deciding to pressure-test the entire 4500 metres of pipe at once. The results were exceptional. B&B successfully tested the line at 200 psi for 2 hours with not a drop of leakage. The gauge did not budge off of the 200 psi level. The bottle-tight joints of PVC helped to make an already successful installation into a very successful overall project.

If during a pressure/leakage test on PVC, the pressure drops slightly (within allowable make-up water volumes), does this mean that there has been leakage? Perhaps, but in-plant testing of PVC pipe as well as numerous case histories such as B&B Contracting's project in Delta, seem to indicate that properly assembled PVC pipe will not be leaking.

So why does there occasionally need to be small volumes of make-up water after a pressure test? Here are 4 possible reasons:

(a) entrapped air

(b) shifting of tees or elbows before joint restraints function

(c) faulty connections for valves, fittings, hydrants or services

(d) radial expansion of the PVC pipe

In fact, radial expansion is such a significant factor with one other thermoplastic piping material (HDPE) that its test limit is specifically identified as an ‘Expansion Allowance’, rather than a ‘Leakage Allowance’. It is also interesting to note that if one does a comparison, the actual values of allowable make-up water are found to be significantly greater with butt-fused HDPE than those for gasketed PVC pipe for equivalent pipe sections and test pressures.

In summary, the reader is advised that many times a more proper term for ‘Leakage’ is ‘Apparent Leakage’ or 'Make-Up water Allowance' when analyzing the test results of a PVC pressure pipeline. Evidence suggests that properly assembled gasketed PVC pipe will have virtually zero leakage. The fact that PVC will not be weakened over time from corrosion attacks will ensure that the bottle-tight joints of today will remain that way for many years to come.

Gordon Lefort is a Professional Engineer (Mechanical) employed with IPEX Inc., Canada's largest plastic pipe manufacturer and has over 20 years experience with the design and installation of underground plastic pipelines.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

1-888-PVC-FLEX

This is TOLL FREE 1-888-782-3539 for technical support questions and customer support only. All orders must be placed on the website. (Click here if you don't want to put your card number online or want to purchase by check or money orders.) You can click here to email customer support as well. Please read the FAQ and yellow TECH HELP box before you call, email or order because most questions are already answered there. All "Requests For Quotes" for over 5000 fittings or 2000' of flex pvc should be emailed to us. For smaller orders, just use the website. Phone hours are 10am to 4pm PST, Monday-Friday. To see shipping charges, add the items to your cart.
To add items to your cart, enter the number of items you want in the box and then click on the blue 'add to cart' button.
To change quantities, click on 'view cart', then change the number in the box next to the item and click on the 'edit quantity' button (under the totals) before you check out for it to take effect. Thank you!

PVC-Copper-Pipe-Adapters

0606-15 1.5 inch copper pipe to PVC

Transition from 1.5 copper pipe to 1.5" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 1.5" slip socket (pipe glues into it) or 2" spigot (it goes into a 2" fitting.) Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal.
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0606-20 2 inch copper pipe to PVC

Transition from 2 copper pipe to 2" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 2" slip socket (pipe glues into it) Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal.
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935-07 3/4inch copper pipe to PVC

Transition from 3/4 copper pipe to 3/4" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 3/4" spigot (it goes into a 3/4" fitting.) Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal.
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935-10 1 inch copper pipe to PVC

Transition from 1" copper pipe to 1" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 1" spigot (it goes into a 1" fitting.) Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal.
$13.58 View Cart Check Out

935-12 1.25inch copper to 1.25 pvc

Transition from 1.25" copper pipe to 1.25" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 1.25" spigot (it goes into a 1" fitting.) Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal. (non-stocked item, special order fitting, allow extra time.)
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935-15S 1.5inch copper to 1.5 pvc

Transition from 1.5" copper pipe to 1.5" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 1.5" Slip socket. Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal. This is also a 2" spigot fitting by 1.5" copper adatper.
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935-20 2inch copper to 2 pvc

Transition from 2" copper pipe to 2" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 2" spigot. Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal. (non-stocked item, special order fitting, allow extra time.)
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935-20S 2inch copper to 2 pvc

Transition from 2" copper pipe to 2" pvc pipe easily. PVC side is 2" slip socket Comes with Buna-70 O-ring for a positive water tight seal.
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Source: flexpvc.com

Monday, January 10, 2011

BPA, PVC and Phthalate Free Nuby Baby Product Guide

BPA, PVC and Phthalate Free Nuby Baby Product Guide

Are you worried about that Nuby cup your baby is drinking from? Take a minute to review the following list of safe Nuby options before you throw it out in a panic. Nuby's naming system can be confusing, but educating yourself on what's what will help you avoid toxic plastic. I've confirmed with Nuby which products are free of bisphenol-a and phthalates. They informed me that all of their products are PVC free as well.

Nuby makes hundreds of products, so this list is not comprehensive, but it will give you a great foundation for providing your children with safer feeding options.

Nuby Bottles:


7 oz 3-Stage Standard Neck Bottle w/ handles and soft silicone spout included
11 oz 3-Stage Standard Neck Bottle w/ handles and soft silicone spout included
10 oz Tinted Bottles With Bottles with Non-Drip Nipples (3 pack)

Nuby Sippy Cups:


Easy Grip 10 oz No-Spill Sipper with Soft Silicone Spout (also called the Gripper Cup)
Easy Grip 10 oz No-Spill Sports Sipper
Insulated 9 oz Cup with Flip-It Top
10 oz Two Handle Cup with Soft Silicone Spout (also called 2 Handle No-spill 10 oz Cup)
14 oz Tinted Flip-It Leak-proof Straw Cup (also called the 14 oz Sport Sipper)
12 oz No-spill Mega Sipper With Fat Flip-It Straw (also called 12 oz Mega Sipper, as well as, 12 oz No-spill Flip-it Straw Cup)
12 oz No-Spill Sport Sipper (also called 12 oz No-spill Gripper, or Easy Grip Sport Sipper)
9 oz Printed Insulated No-spill Cup with Silicone Spout 2 Pack
9oz No-spill Printed Cup with Silicone Spout 2 pack
9oz No-Spill Printed Cup with Flip-it Straw
Insulated 9 oz Printed Cup with Flip-It Straw
11oz Insulated Magic Motion Flip-it Cup
9oz Insulated No-spill Cup with Flip-it Cap 2 Pack

All Nuby Flip-it Cap Sippys and Flip-it Straw Cups do contain some BPA in the flip-it cover. The liquid does not come in contact with the flip-it cover, so I would still recommend them as a good option. Use your own discretion when purchasing.

Nuby Teethers:


Nuby Nibbler
Jiggle Giggle Butterfly and Cow Cool Bite Vibrating teethers
Icy Bite teether
Ice Gel Teether Keys on a Ring
Bug-A-Loop Teether
Kool Soother Teethers
Jiggle Giggle Vibrating Teethers (all styles)
Fun Teethers (all styles)
Cool-Sicles Teethers (all styles)
Pur Icy Bite Teethers (triangle shape)

Nuby Dishes and Utensils:


Soft Edge Hot Safe Feeding Spoons 3 Pack
Spoon and Fork Set (2 each) with Easy Grip
Wacky Ware Spoon and Fork with Soft Handle
Wacky Ware Microwaveable Bowl with Lid
Fun Feeding Spoons with Toys and Sounds
Snack Cup and Spoon
All Nuby Wash or Toss Dishes
Powdered Formula Dispenser

So after all the hours and hours of research, Nuby offers quite a few safer feeding alternatives. The company has also been completely open and honest about the materials used in their whole line of products.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Here Choosing Patio Door Styles - Which is Right For You

Here Choosing Patio Door Styles - Which is Right For You

When selecting your new doors and windows, they should look good, be functional, durable, provide good insulation and security and, when the time comes to sell, enhance your chances of selling quickly for a good price. Here are some aspects to consider before you buy.

Doors: external doors for access to the garden or balcony are no longer restricted to sliding panels and double doors.

French doors are traditionally wooden but are also available in PVC-u and aluminium, and can open inward or outwards.

Patio doors, traditionally, have consisted of two or more large panes of glass with PVC-u or aluminium frames, where one or more door can slide across to provide a walk-through opening. Wide doors can offer unrivalled views from the house but sliding panels restrict access by at least 50% of the potential opening.

The sliding method has been prone to eventual operational difficulties, giving rise to the rolling patio door mechanism - a series of rollers (like miniature in-line skates) are fitted to the bottom of the door panels so that the doors glide open and close easily. The rollers are usually made from steel or nylon; steel wheels may eventually cause wear to the runners whereas nylon runners may be the casualty against harder (e.g. aluminium) runners. Note that the wheels are easier and cheaper to replace than the runners.

Bi-folding or concertina-style patio doors are becoming increasingly popular. Optionally made from hardwood, PVC-u or aluminium, with a number of different folding options available, virtually the whole of the aperture gives access between indoors and outside - or between the house and conservatory, providing one big bright party room! The doors fold in half and the edges on the runners are pivotal, top and bottom. Advantages of aluminium over PVC are the lower threshold (better for access) and narrower frames (less interruption to the views); aluminium has a much smaller profile than wooden frames, meaning that the doors push back into a smaller space for a wider aperture.

Frames: usually made from wood (softwood or hardwood), plastic (PVC-u) or metal-aluminium.

The low budget option is to use softwood; it looks good when new and can be stained or painted to suit individual tastes. The disadvantages are that it soon deteriorates if not re-coated regularly and it has a tendency to warp with changes of temperature and humidity, making closing them a chore. Hardwood, whilst more expensive, has the same good qualities, is far more durable and offers good thermal insulation. Wooden frames exposed to harsh weather (including sunshine!) may need to be treated every year.

Plastic/PVC frames usually come in white, sometimes brown and wood-grain finishes. Prices vary with quality, the cheaper ones costing little more than softwood and the stronger ones comparable with hardwood. Better quality pvc doors are often reinforced with metal inside the frames; cheaper frames may be prone to movement resulting in cracks to the frame or glass. A major drawback is that pvc frames tend to be much wider than either wooden or metal frames, therefore the view through the glass is more restricted.

Aluminium is the strongest material and is maintenance-free. On its own, it would look ugly and be a bad insulator but most manufacturers incorporate a thermal barrier and provide a powder-coated finish, usually standard white but often a choice of industry standard colours, e.g. silver, green, blue, grey.

Glass: British Standards-compliant double-glazing can help reduce heat loss and improve energy efficiency. The air between the two glass panes in standard double-glazing acts as an insulator. Suppliers who manufacture to order may have options to increase thermal performance by replacing the cavity air with an insulating gas and/or coating the glass facing inside the house with a reflective coating. Reflective coating is also useful for south-facing patio doors and windows, to reflect the sun and keep temperatures down in summer. The most popular standard is Pilkington's K-glass.

The glass cavity has other uses: it may be increased to minimise sound or it could enclose window blinds, usually horizontal slats or pleated, that will never need dusting and are less prone to damage from everyday wear and tear. Essential in south-facing doors and operated by magnets on the surface of the glazing, the integral blinds are never in the way when the doors are opened.

Choosing your supplier: factors to consider are: price, quality, frame and glass options, finish options, flexibility of service, delivery dates, stock size or made to measure, installation fitting service, guarantees, warranties, locally (UK) sourced, manufacturer or agent reputation and after-sales service. Ask to visit an installation and beware the hard-sell! If you are offered huge discounts to sign up immediately, they were probably trying to cheat you in the first place.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Connecting PVC Pipes and Fittings

Connecting PVC Pipes and Fittings

First you will need to measure, cut and prepare your PVC Pipes. For detailed instructions on how to do this, find out Hub called Cutting PVC Pipe.

After the Pipe is cut and free from debris, you need to use a PVC Primer. This primer washes off any manufacturers labels and softens the pipe slightly which helps to create a tighter seal.

Once primed, apply PVC Cement to both the PVC Pipe (outside) and PVC Pipe Fitting (inside).

Finally, connect the two pieces slowly and in one motion twist the pipe 90 degrees. Hold the joint tight for about 15 seconds to prevent it from popping out. Then wipe away the excess cement.

This will create a clean, leak-proof joint. Repeat as needed for other PVC Pipes and PVC Pipe Fittings.

See the Video and Images below for additional help.

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